Via Romana

We are passing in front of the Svetina Bakery, which is the oldest in Tarvisio and has been making Sweet Krampus Bread for more than 80 years. They are small rolls, specially cut and shaped into little bread Krampus figures, complete with a tongue, eyes made of raisins and whips in their hands. They are precious, a very important piece of work. These small bread rolls are given by Saint Nicholas and the Krampus to children during the Feast of Saint Nicholas and the Krampus, and serve to soften the fear and anxiety, or even just the excitement of the moment.
From here onwards we go up along Via Romana, which is the oldest street in Tarvisio, the original main street — Via Roma came later — it is a narrower, very charming street. On the left-hand side there is the forest and on the right-hand side old houses, including the famous pharmacy, which has stories set in the Austro-Hungarian period. Going up, there are other old inns, the forest house, which is an old and very important building, because the forest is the most precious asset of the valley, the most closely followed and the most carefully tended.
But from there one also gains access to a fantastic wood which is now called Parco Cervi, a mysterious wood from which the Krampus emerge on 5 December. These Krampus carry torches, large cowbells, chains tied to them, whips in their hands. They do not speak — they grunt, they ring their bells and run. All this sends a shiver down the spine of anyone who comes near, both those who are prepared and those who know nothing about it; and they throw themselves down the slope to land in Via Roma and in the square. Here they cross paths with the other Krampus coming up from the part of the so-called Lower Tarvisio and they get up to all sorts of things along this street, leaving the audience in awe, everyone extremely excited, with great trampling of children running. “They’re coming, they’re coming! Help! How beautiful! How ugly these Krampus are!” is the phrase heard most often. They chase the older boys, those, let us say, from eleven to eighteen years old, because these boys challenge them and do acrobatic jumps and snigger and shout. And these Krampus, with very heavy masks, with chains, with cowbells, must have this incredible ability to chase them and catch them — seeing nothing, I believe, but it is a magical moment. Let us not forget that the real Krampus, at that moment, have entered their eyes and are guiding them. And in the face of all this racket, this noise, this whole spectacle gathering in the centre of the old square in front of the church, the church doors open and out comes an imposing Saint Nicholas, handsome, imposing, with a great beard, with his pastoral staff, his mitre and his cloak and the enchanted book in which he knows everything about all the children. And he is often followed by an angelic young girl, complete with wings and white dress, dragging a large basket full of these famous Sweet Krampus Bread. This beautiful Saint Nicholas strikes his staff on the ground and suddenly total silence falls over the square.