Between Faith and Power

The Cathedral Square

Hello, I'm Marcello Beato. Art and history are my passion, which is why I've made them my profession. As a tour guide, I love helping both visitors and locals discover how beautiful and rich in history South Tyrol is. Brixen is surely one of the most important places in the history of South Tyrol. It was here that the prince-bishop resided, who for many centuries was responsible for administering the territory on behalf of the Holy Roman Emperor.

Such an important city could not possibly have a modest church. This is why Bressanone Cathedral, which you can admire by moving to the centre of the square, is so large and has been renovated many times throughout its history[Ug2.1]. Between 1745 and 1754, the church was rebuilt in Baroque style, and they really spent a lot of money. As many as 33 different types of precious marble were used for the inside walls. The frescoes were painted by Paul Troger, one of the most talented Baroque artists in Tyrol.

Attached to Brixen Cathedral is the cloister, one of the most evocative places of art in the whole of South Tyrol. Every time I go in, I am speechless, even though I have seen it many times now. Breathtaking are above all the well-preserved Gothic frescoes, which illustrate religious themes and offer a sort of snapshot of medieval life. The invitation, therefore, is to enter and discover this treasure of art, to pause for a moment and perceive the spirituality of this place. Take your time and slow down. Once you have tasted the almost mystical atmosphere of this place, there is one curious detail I would like to point out.

Among the many colorful scenes, there is one in particular that stands out because it is quite unusual. It is an image of an elephant, created by the artist Leonhard von Brixen in the second half of the 15th century. But what is an elephant doing in the cloister of Brixen? The scene depicts the biblical story of Eleazar Maccabeus, who, during a war, found himself facing an elephant. It is clear that the artist had never seen an elephant! It looks more like a horse with a trunk than a real elephant. Go and see for yourself.